DieCastoms

2011-09-22T13:46:00.001-04:00

I started a thread on an RC enthusiast site. I've been having some conversations there that I don't want to try to re-post here. Here is a link to the thread there:

http://www.quarterscalelegends.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2818

The latest news, and some notes.

2011-09-21T19:20:00.001-04:00

There is some new developments to the radio control truck project. First and most significant change is that it will no longer be a tractor trailer, but instead a large Ford F150 style pickup. The reason for this change is quite simple:

It was free!!

I was given this fiberglass body by someone who was commissioned to make copies of it, but the customer never made final arrangements or returned calls. The glasser was going to toss it in the dumpster or try to get $10 for it. I showed interest and he said I could have it.

In the picture, it is simply propped up on a hand-truck (a.k.a mover's dolly, etc.) with a couple extra wheels propped against it for the front and a floorjack to hold the handtruck level.

[Edit:] I've been saying F150 but after accidentally finding a picture on WikiPedia, it's most definitely an F250 from around '85. Here's the pic right from Wiki:

There are some measurement notes after the jump just for a place to keep them. They aren't worth reading.

These are being posted here for simple lack of anywhere better to keep the notes. . .
Dimensions are in rough inches, some are self-explanatory, others are not.

47 1/2 long overall
27 long cab
13 bottom of windshield to back window

18 3/4 wide at fender openings
21 self propelled mower transaxle

7 high inside bed
9 1/2 inside hood
13 1/2 inside cab
10 hand truck from grnd

Treadmill remains 1 X 2 tubing
Engine
H 8
L 8
W @ bellhouse 6, w/ carb 8

Snapper tires 10 inch
GoCart mags front 9 1/2
Rear 10 1/2
Toro tilter knobbies 13 1/2

My next LED/DCC project

2011-03-28T17:13:00.001-04:00

My next project will be a B'Mann (trainset) GP38-2. It's going to be my decoder tester since it is

A.) basically empty inside,

B.) has a real easy body to lift off,

C.) (now) has a 9-pin wire harness and an 8-pin socket (also custom made from 1x40 IC header pins),

D.) is simple enough that I don't think I could possibly damage it with a bad decoder, and

E.) is cheap enough that I don't really care if something does happen.

I am going to install F0F and F0R, of course, as well as the functions that go with purple and green wires. I was also going to install an LED on the board inside the loco with two header-pin-sockets and make a pair of jumper wires. I could plug the jumper wires in and use them as probes to check functions that only have solder pads and do not connect through the harness. It will still be more good practice installing LEDs and soldering in the tight places, etc.

Pictures to come; now that I have a better camera than I had, I will try to take more pictures more often.

Mike, at DieCastoms

Successful LED install

2011-03-28T17:08:00.001-04:00

This is my first, successful LED install and I wanted to share it because I am proud of it. This is practice for installing LEDs in my 4 or 5 locos...

I'm sorry that I didn't bother to take progress photos.

Pics and a little more info after the jump..

The chrome front of the truck is plastic. I drilled holes through the molded headlights and then filed the holes square and filled them with hot-glue.
Light sources are 0603 white and were purchased on EBay. The two LEDs are wired in parallel using 30AWG wire and powered directly from a CR2032 coin-cell with no resistors at all, for the time being.
the LEDs are glued directly to the inside of the hot-glue "lenses" with another dab of hot-glue.

Eventually a battery will be put in the trailer and the trailer hitch will be replaced with a "headphone" jack and plug so the turn and trailer can swivel without breaking wires.

I am sure plenty of it was done "wrong" but this was for practice, not caring about the end result. I think it is a pretty good end result for a first try with crude materials :)

Michael.

FS: Lionel FasTrack and CW-80 controller and more!

2011-02-25T22:57:00.001-05:00

Thank you for allowing me to join your group!

I have several items and their descriptions to list. Please read the whole post.

I have for sale 1 Lionel CW-80 80-watt AC controller. This control is listed on Lionel's site for $149.99. Please note, this control DOES NOT include a box or printed instructions of any kind, but LOOKS brand-new! A DVD is mentioned in my ad below.

http://www.lionel.com/Products/Finder/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductNumber=6-14198&expandBranch=0&Keywords=&CategoryID=40&RailLineID=&CatalogId=

I also have one complete circle of FasTrack plus two straight sections that I assume are 10 inch.

The only documentation for the power pack or track is an included "Ready-To-Run Train Set Instructional Digital Video Disk." On the back of the disk's cardboard sleeve in the upper-right corner is a number "71-4208-200"

Also included are 4 poseable figurines. All four figures can turn their heads, and have jointed hips, knees and shoulders, no elbows!

These appear to be the figures from the Polar Express set and are priced $29.99 on the Lionel site. Note that these figures ARE NOT in a box!

http://www.lionel.com/products/catalogs/Catalog.cfm?CatalogUID=B211F19C-B0D0-205D-B7B0CE8B175C46BE&PageID=1675

http://www.lionel.com/products/ProductNavigator/_ProductImages_590/C765_6-24203_p11_Figures.jpg

I also have what appear to be two thick rubber traction tires, about 1 inch in diameter.

Please ask any questions about these items ON-FORUM so that others may see the questions and answers. Please send your bids to me OFF-FORUM.

I will wait 48 hours to give everyone a chance to get their bids in. The highest bid will win it all! Winning bidder is to pay exact shipping charges for his or her preferred method of shipment.

Digitrax Equipment for sale or trade:

2011-02-23T15:40:00.003-05:00

Any reasonable trade will be entertained. No trade will be accepted within 48
hours of the offer, to give others a chance to make offers (unless it is simply
an irrefusable offer!) Shipping will be paid by the original owners of the
equipment, please keep that in mind.

Thanks for looking.

Michael

---------------------------------
Items OFFERED:
---------------------------------
Unless otherwise noted, all items are:
~ used, but less than 10 hours run-time
~ WITHOUT their original boxes or packing materials
~ INCLUDING original instruction manuals

(2x) DT100IR throttles (with approx 7-foot cables)
(1x) UR91 No Longer Available.
(1x) 4-foot yellow loconet cable
(1x) UP5 (This is a NON-DIGITRAX generic UP5 equivelent panel from
tonystrains.com
(1x) MS100 (NEVER used, no packaging, no instructions, almost 9 foot cable with
ferrite supressor)

---------------------------------
Items WANTED:
---------------------------------

(2x) UT4 throttles ( Can be either UT4 or UT4R, but not UT4D )
(1x) Locobuffer ( must have USB connection )
(1x) PR3
(1x) DTxxx throttle (Any DT throttle will do)
(?x) decoders**

**Decoders can be any size, any flavor, but preferably Digitrax. I will take
decoders with burnt functions if they still operate reliably for their remaining
functions. Please note which functions are damaged and how they got damaged, if
you know.

[Edit, 2/23/2011] Removed UR91

HO scale vehicles list

2010-01-12T14:17:00.010-05:00

This post is my list of vehicles that I have received through various trades and other sources. I will edit this from time to time so the list will change. Whenever I edit it, I will leave a comment for what was added.
PLEASE If I have acquired a vehicle from you and have listed it incorrectly or incompletely, COMMENT and CORRECT ME! I would hate to sell a Trident for $.50 because I didn't know!!

The list is in several sections, 1:80 Matchbox and Hotwheels etc., and 1:87 HO scale stuff. Those lists are broken down into what I will offer for trade, what you might get me to trade, and what I will not trade (this listing is for my own reference too!) If there is something you are interested in or something you want to offer for trade, feel free to comment!

The list is after the jump... (now that I figured out how to add jumps ;) )

For Offer, 1:80 scale:

5x [5X TRADED]-- MatchBox -- FedEx box trucks

1x -- HotWheels -- FedEx armored box truck (looks very much like the others and 'fits in)

6x [6X TRADED] -- Matchbox -- Peterbilt Tanker (Blue cab, chrome tank with large red fire emblem)

2x -- Matchbox -- 1996 red Ambulance with a "technicolor yawn" paint scheme

1x -- Matchbox -- 1999 Blue Ford PanelVan "Metro" police van, w/ orange molded light bar

1x [1X TRADED]-- Matchbox -- 1981 Allied Movers Box truck, orange Volvo COE. Container is removable leaving flat bed, container has working doors.

1x -- UnKnown -- Blue "Speed Lines" Cab and Trailer, good looking truck but not Mathcbox or Hotwheels, "dollar store" variety with rounded and ribbed tires, box releases truck only when jack knifed. dicast cab shell on plastic chassis, all plastic box, box has working doors.

Not for offer, 1:80 scale:

1x -- UnKnown -- blank white Tractor Trailer cab of unknown manu. WELL detailed with opening hood, looks more like a model kit than a 'toy'.. full chassis with seperate fram rails, drive shaft, gas tanks, twin-screw pumpkins etc., not molded belly.. Not for offer.

1x -- Unknown -- relatively ugly and low-detailed older style cab and trailer, looks more like 1:87, but not sure, both have red rims, box has good looking Pepsi decal, box has working doors, wife will hurt me if I trade this :P

1x -- Matchbox -- Cab over Engine truck and trailer, red with Original Nintendo Logo! This truck is STILL ON THE BLISTER CARD.. Cap is red with white stripes and Nintendo logo on door, plastic chrome chassis, diecast body, no interior, treailor is diecast chassis with plastic box and Nintendo logo on full side. Working doors on box.

May be For Offer, 1:87 scale, depending on counter offer:

1x -- Model Power (not marked) -- FedEx trailer, may be a model kit, door swings out in one piece and retracts into box.

1x,1x -- Road Champs -- Union Pacific Cab and Trailer. Cab: Ford Aeromax 120, diecast body, molded belly, plastic sleeper, no working doors. Box: "Union Pacific" 'Trailer Freight Service' and american flag on sides, winged UP badge on front, no working doors, metal trailer hitch pin locks firmly into fifth wheel.

1:87 scale, most likely not for offer but may 'give in' for the right counter offer:

1x -- Trident -- UP badged Chevy Blazer, still in box including a model sprue of "optional" details. Price on box $13.95. trident site lists all-white Chevy Blazer for $12.95 currently, I do not see a UP badged model currently. This item is not available for trade.

1x -- Trident -- UP badged pickup, still in box including a model sprue of "optional" details. Price on box $12.95. trident site lists all-white pickups for $12.95 currently, I do not see a UP badged model currently. This item is not available for trade.

1x -- "Malibu" -- Jaguar with nice details, full interior, rubber tires.

3x -- "Smart Toys" -- SUVs look like maybe a "Range Rover", 1x Yellow, 1x White, 1x Silver, all with black luggage-rack ribs (silver ribs on the yellow one), grossly over-scale trailer ball, no trailers included.

1x -- "Smart Toys" -- "black and white" generic police car, painted metal roof-bar, same knobby tires as the three SUVs, unlike the SUVs, some features look out or proportion to each other.

1x -- "NewRay" -- Police Patrol Bronco (looking) all plastic, no lightbar.

?x -- "Kinsmart" -- 1:86 scale (says so on bottom) Chevrolet Caprice Taxi with pull-back motor, nicely detailed, with real rubber tires, and almost readable "rates" on back doors. I have more of these coming but I do not know how many. I will offer SOME but not ALL.

Newly acquired HO equipment

2010-01-12T11:34:00.006-05:00

I do not have a camera worth anything, so you will have to live with photos found online of these items.

First, I have managed another of my "nothing for everything" trades and traded a sinle Life-Like N Scale GP38 for a Bachmann HO GP40-2 from a department-store trainset. The GP40-2 came to me 'equipped' with a Digitrax DH140 4 function decoder.

As shown in the image, the GP40-2 also came with a low gondola and a caboose, all in UP flavors. The two vehicles also have a UP badge on them and are true HO scale, not Mathcbox or Hot Wheels, which are 1:80 scale, not the correct 1:87. Those two vehicles are "Trident" and from the old price stickers on the box, were $15 each 10 years ago.

---

I have found a flea market a few miles from my home which seems to have been there for years and I simply didn't know.

I went rummaging through there over this past weekend and found a jewel (at least I think so..). One particular vendor has a number of HO pieces of various health. I looked through them and popped the shells off each one that I could. One had fly wheels and all-axle drive, the others had trainset motors (all in one truck).

The hobby-grade loco was the only one without a price on it. I asked and was told that it didn't run, so he was only asking $5. I figured even just for the 5 pole skewed motor and flywheels, it was worth it.

Turns out, I was right :D The loco is an Athearn Blue-Box FP45.

(stolen from an ebay listing.. sorry seller >.< )

The reason it does not run is because there is supposed to be an electrical wiper clipped to the top of the motor which rides on pads protruding from the top of each truck. The chassis is all metal and carries the power to the other side of the motor. The wiper is missing.
While working on the loco to try to clean it up a little, I tried pushing the press-fit motor mount out and it crumbled in place... I asked on a friendly website and wsa helped to find a source of replacement parts and can get both the wiper and the motor mounts for less than I paid for the loco! $4 for both items, plus shipping. I await my birthday money on the 28th ;)

--

The deal I mentioned for the GP40-2 modified itself to become a FAR LARGER deal and now includes a multitude of unlisted "as-is" vehicles and random HO 'stuff' as it is shipped to me in exchange for work done to install decoders into the other party's N scale locomotives. As I receive those vehicles I will TRY to catalog them. I want to start trading them out for either locomotives with or without DCC (with, preferred as I cannot run analog with my DCC command system), or loose decoders of any make (preferably TCS, preferably not Digitrax) with any number of functions (the more, the better ;) )

I had intended to add the catalog of vehicles to this post as well but now that I have it typed up, it is realllly long, so I will give it it's own post and keywords and will update it via comments as time passes.

Mike from DieCastoms.

"Ruby Basin" HO Timber Trestle Kit

2009-12-05T13:29:00.008-05:00

Keeping with my tradition of waiting far too long between posts, it has been far too long since my last post.

I have changed my colors, first of all. I've switched from N scale to HO scale, for various reasons. The MAIN reason is, I have moved from Georgia to Connecticut (from my wife's home to my parent's home) and had not expected to stay up north as long as I have. I left ALL of my N Scale stuff in Georgia.

The next reason is that after buying a loco and then a DCC control system (Prodigy Advance detailed elsewhere in my bolg), I was never able to afford a DCC decoder and installation (since I accidentally bought a loco that was not DCC ready).

I came into a deal that I could not refuse and landed myself an HO locomotive with DCC installed. The deal was, that loco (in original packaging) to me in exchange for a single hand-built flat car made by myself (my first EVER, mind you..).

The loco is a Roundhouse 2-8-0 with ATSF roadname and numbers (599). The loco includes a Train Control System's (TCS) T1 DCC decoder. I also have an extra TCS T1 that is burnt out and TCS has said that they will replace it for me. I do not have photos of the loco currently, but when I eventually do, I will edit this post.

Here is the HO scale "Ruby Basin Timber Trestle (AHM 5824) that I just bought off of Craig'slist for $15 + $5 S&H. The trestle is over 20 years old and is complete and still in the original box, with no visible shelf wear.

Max finished dimensions are:
1 real inch = 7.25 scale feet
26" = 188' long
11.5" = 82' high
5.25" = 38' wide

There are 24 'bents' or legs for the trestle that range in height from 1.5 inches to 11.75 inches. There are also 3 water barrels for fire control and three ladders for escaping fires.

I haven't any glue yet so I can't do much with the trestle just yet. I intend to make a diorama out of solid foam to mount the finished trestle in and display it and a locomotive I have.

Match Stick Trestle, a test of strength

2009-04-16T02:52:00.011-04:00

Since I intend to someday start building trestles in G scale (and maybe O if there is a call for it) I wanted some hint of how sturdy trestles are.

The one in the photos is built out of match-sticks and white all-purpose Elmer's glue. The trestle was not built to any specific scale, but does loosely follow plans found on the internet. It was built solely for the purpose of piling measurable weight on it until it was crushed.

I don't have pictures of construction, I didn't think of it. I also don't have pictures of many of the small tests that I did.

Pictured with an U.S. Quarter (round circular blur laying on top).

I started out thinking that it wouldn't take much to crush it, figuring that the glued joints would fail quickly. I put the section on my mother-in-law's diet scale, which was capable of 2 pounds. Being only interested at the weight at which the trestle gave out, I did not keep any results as I added circular steel scraps that I got from my Dad. I do not know how much each weighed. I was able to pile all of them on without affecting the trestle.

I got ballsy and decided to skip ahead (bad practice, I know) and placed the section on the flat kitchen counter and used a cutting board on top of it for a flat surface on which to balance a 3 litre bottle of soda-pop. Based on water weighing 8 pounds per gallon, 3 liters = .792 gallons , therefor 3 liters of water = 6.6 pounds. This amount of weight also had no affect on the trestle.

Close up of 6.6 pound, 3-litre bottle on trestle.

Mid-length shot of soda bottle on trestle.

Long Shot of bottle on trestle, showing the weight being taken ONLY by the trestle. Getting this to balance was a task in itself!

Once I had proven at least 6 pounds, I skipped ahead even farther, and took the section outside to the front porch. I placed the section on the railing and balanced a 26.5 pound cement block atop of it. Unbelievably, this also did not seem to affect the trestle. I snapped a picture or two but my arms were not long enough for me to show that the entire weight of the block was being supported by the trestle and that I was only providing balance.

The only useful shot I was able to get of the cement block.

When I tried to maneuver myself to show that nothing other than the trestle section was supporting the entire weight of the block, I inadvertently produced a small amount of lateral twist which resulted in a catastrophic failure of the structure. In layman's terms, I squished it. NO, you sadistic pest, I do NOT have pictures of the aftermath!

I can't wait to build a trestle in G or O scale out of Western Red Cedar. The timbers will be 1/2" square and significantly stronger than the matches..

I eventually intend to build one out of bamboo skewers too, for the sake of crushing in another strength test.. When the time comes, I will post photos.

Till then, I hope you enjoy this batch!

Mike.

Why?

2008-12-10T16:29:00.007-05:00

That's all I can say.... Why?

If it was a legitimate accident, I feel sorry for the owner who loast what was a nice Civic...

If the owner was driving recklessly and cause the accident him or her self, then I say HA!!!! SUCKAH!

walking robots, SumoBot, and other fun stuff.

2008-11-27T00:41:00.002-05:00

So, I wanted some way to be certain that all of the parts from the radio control system stayed together and nothing got damaged or tangled etc.

I looked on the internet for any project I could find involving two servos.

The first thing I found was this walking robot on Instructables:
"http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Servo-based-4-legged-Walker/

This walker uses a micro processor to control it and therefor simply walks forward at a set pace. Since I don't have the Adruino processor, I used the radio system in it's place, hoping that I would be able to control the thing "by hand." As it turns out, it was extremely simple to control. Move one stick on the controller all the way in any direction and then rotate the stick in a counterclockwise direction around it's limits, and the thing will walk forward. Rotate the stick clockwise and it will walk in reverse.

I will add a video once I get it off the camcorder.

I played with that for a while but got quickly bored with it, and decided I wanted to investigate the continuous rotation mod for servos...

Here is a tutorial:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-modify-a-servo-motor-for-continuous-rotatio/

As it turns out, modifying the two servos that I have was not as difficult. I did not have to glue any gears together and I did not have to cut the top off the pot (double click 'potentiometer' for a definition). All I had to do was sand off the 180 degree stop tab and slip a piece of plastic out of the output shaft.

Now that I had two continuous rotation servos and a complete radio control system, I simply HAD to build a crude, two-wheeled sumobot.

I will add a video once I get it off the camcorder.

It worked but I wanted to try different things so I destroyed it and started over several times. I have used several different wheels including some MASSIVE washers, wheels off a child's toy, and considered CDs.

I think the next step will be a much wider base with CDs for wheels and the entire body of the 'bot hanging beneath the 'axle', devoid of a third wheel.

I will keep you posted.

Mike from DC.

Turkey Day

2008-11-26T22:08:00.001-05:00

No, not my birthday, that's the wrong turkey!

Just wanted to wish those few people who actually watch my blog:

HAVE A VERY WONDERFUL THANKSGIVING!!

Michael and Christina, from DieCastoms!

Magum Opus has a radio!

2008-11-13T22:31:00.005-05:00

Two things..

First, a friend referred to my project as my "Magnum Opus" the other day. It means one's "greatest achievement." I thought it sounded really cool so I think I might letter it on my truck. It will be in red fancy lettering, looking like a signature or autograph, under the window on the driver's door. "S. Christopher" will be in the same place on the passangers door, that way I will always be traveling with "Saint Christopher," the Patron Saint of Travelers at my side.

The other thing is..
I HAVE R/C NOW!

Dad brought home an old Futaba airplane transmitter and receiver, servos, battery packs, and a charger. For those of you who may know something about the equipment, here are the specs:

Transmitter (Tx)
FP-T4NBL "Attack 4"
4 Channel, 72.630MHz (channel 42)

Battery Pack (Tx)
Futaba NT-8JY
9.6VDC - 500mAh

Reciever (Rx)
Futaba FP-R114h
4 channel digital proportional, 72.630MHz

Battery Pack (Reciever)
Futaba NR-4J
4.8vdc - 500mAh

Charger
Futaba FBC-8B(4)
9.6VDC - 50mAh (Tx)
4.8VDC - 50mAh (Rx)

Servo
Futaba FP-S148

Servo
Aristo "Elite-1"
ARI-03-400

The system is currently set up for channel 42, 72.630MHz, which is for air use only and not legal to be used on land or sea vehicles. It will be fine for now for testing and whatnot but the channel WILL have to be changed before I can start making appearances with the truck. I SHOULD be able to just buy a pair of quartz crystals and plug them in to change the channel. That shouldn't cost much.

Either of the servos included will run the throttle, but neither are strong enough for much of anything else.

Long awaited videos of the truck engine running

2008-11-12T02:15:00.006-05:00

Here are a few pieces of video I took about two weeks ago of the engine for the truck.

The engine is an X6 Pocket Bike engine. It is 49cc 2-stroke and is running on about an ounce of 40:1 two-stroke mixed fuel. The engine is being started with a set of "self contained jumper cables" or a "jumper pack" in some shots, and pull started in other shots.

Several times during the videos, I lift the engine off the ground and it promptly stalls.. This is because the fuel is gravity feed, thus the engine runs out of gas any time it is higher than the gas tank. In the final build, the gas tank will be mounted inside the top of the sleeper cab. This will provide the same gravity feed that was present in the motorcycle (X6 Pocket Bike) that the engine came out of originally.

In the video the exhaust port is open so you get the full sound of the 2-stroke, but with the muffler in place the engine is surprisingly muted and quiet. I have no clue if I will make any attempts at manipulating the sound or not. I was considering injecting motor oil or "smoke oil" into the exhaust to simulate a hard working diesel engine.

Hope you enjoy these videos!

By the way, the large silver item to the right of the engine is an 8:1 reduction "Constantly Variable Transmission" or CVT. It is from the pocket bike and houses the clutch. There is also another reduction between the secondary pulley and the chain sprocket output shaft. The total reduction is unknown at this time, but so is the engine's total RPM so I can't do any calculations anyway. The rear tire on the pocket bike is roughly the same diameter as the tires on the truck so I expect the same speed if nothing else is changed. For this reason, I want to add MORE reduction to the drive train to generate more pulling power and less overall speed. My target is a top speed of 15 miles per hour, and as much as it can possibly pull.

Here is another video:

OMG! SERIOUS SPONSOR!!!!!

2008-11-12T02:06:00.003-05:00

I have just had an offer from an old friend to donate LABOR AND MATERIALS for a CUSTOM COMPLETE Fibreglass body for the truck!!!!

In exchange for his services, C will be getting his business name (of his choice) lettered on the cab doors!!!!

I will have to build the chassis and fit the engine and build a wooden form for him to glass over. He has offered to do opening doors as well. I will be doing all fitting work, but he will be making the cab itself.

This is one of the BIGGEST contributors to the truck to date!

I will write more on this post after C and I work out some more details.

Please note that those of you on the email list will NOT be notified of edits to posts, so always check the blog directly when you see that a post has been made. I have a nasty habit of posting and then editing.

THANKS C!

Mike from DC

SSSPROOIING!!!!

2008-11-11T00:01:00.002-05:00

So I got this box... plain brown cardboard, not even large enough for a hard cover book... The Post Office stuck a tag over the return address so I have no clue who it is from.. Let's open it...

SSSPROOIING!!!!

I HAVE TRUCK SPRINGS!

Ok, ok, so I opened it three days ago and am just now getting around to posting. Hush.

I had no idea how stiff a 43# rate spring would be, but now that I have one, i can tell you that I can just barely compress it all the way in one bare hand. All 6 were in the box and all are identical. I may slightly redesign my suspension for their use, but they are almost perfect for my application.I think I whould have ordered them just a little longer, but I can deal with it.

Pictures to follow when I get around to taking some.

Mike from DC.

Live Help and IRC Chat rooms added to DieCastoms.BlogSpot.com!!

2008-11-07T14:52:00.003-05:00

As a sort of experiment, I have added a Live Help!!!! function to DieCastoms. It only will work when I or my wife are logged into the system, but feel free to try it! We would love random chats from our visitors even if you aren't in need of assistance!! A permanent link to the Live Help!!!! feature can be found at the upper right of the page, below out logo.

We also have added an IRC channel to the BOTTOM of the page. This is a Java applet and has an expired security certificate. I am aware of that. I got the applet from a trustworthy friend, however, who has been using it for several years. It is safe.
For those of you who have other IRC clients that you would like to use, our room/channel is #DieCastoms and is on the server centralchat.net

We look forward to hearing more from our readers!

Thanks for visiting DieCastoms!

Mike, from DC.

2008-11-02T14:32:00.002-05:00

Just a quick post,

the fan in my Toshiba Portege Laptop has crapped out. I cannot run the laptop WITHOUT the fan (because my wife won't let me), so posts here may be few and far between... as if that would be anything new...

Ah well. Them's the breaks.

Mike, from DC.

Airtrax Omni Directional Wheels

2008-10-29T23:58:00.002-04:00

In a simple effort to make more posts to keep people interested in my blog, I have decided to start making some tech posts too. this post will be one of those.

I have long known what an "OmniWheel" is, having seen them on toys years ago. An OmniWheel is a wheel and tire assembly designed in such a way as to be able to travel in any direction without stopping or changing the orientation of the wheel.

I was watching a TV show this evening called "Prototype This" in which a team of engineers attemps to build prototypes of far fetched ideas, such as Virtual Reality controlled 12 foot tall "Rock-em Sock-em Robots", and cars that can lift themselves into the ait and drive above other cars in traffic or parallel park above other cars.

It was in the latter episode that I was introduced to the "AirTrax" Omni Directional Wheel. The team goes to AirTrax and is given a demonstration of AirTrax's "SIDEWINDER ATX-3000" lift truck.

The SIDEWINDER ATX-3000 Lift Truck (fork lift) is currently the only Omni-Directional Lift truck commercially available worldwide. Click on the image to read more about the ATX-3000 Lift Truck.

Some other resources:
http://www.airtrax.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f_x0RgVzfc

I might also suggest looking up WowWee's "Rovio," the mobile webcam.

Springs reply

2008-10-29T15:20:00.001-04:00

OMG!

THANK YOU!!

My first Official Sponsor!

W.B. Jones Spring Co., Inc.

http://www.springsfast.com/

Springs Fast has provided all six springs for the truck and will receive in return, a 1/4 scale bumper sticker on the truck as well as the trailer, plus honorary mention on the show board for the truck! (A show-board is similar to the 3 panel cardboard display behind your science fail project and contains before/during/after photos, credits, and special thanks type information, to be displayed with the truck at car shows, fairs, etc.)

THANK YOU very much "D." and everyone at SpringsFast and W.B. Jones!

Mike from DC.

Springs response

2008-10-28T18:51:00.002-04:00

I have received a response from the spring supplier.. It seems that they may be able to provide the springs at NO CHARGE!

They have asked for pictures of the truck. Unfortunately there are no pictures as there currently is no truck :P I mentioned to the the videos that I have taken of the engine, etc. (which I will post in my next post). Hopefully the videos will be enough for the moment.

Mike, at DC

Email Posts and Newsletter

2008-10-27T18:27:00.002-04:00

I have learned that I can email posts to the blog now without having to sign in or anything, so hopefully I will post more often. I can NOT add labels or anything from the email though, so will have to log in once in a while to sort posts.

I have also learned that posts can be emailed directly to up to 10 addresses immediately. I have 8 left. If you would like to join my "mailing list" please leave a comment on this post. If you do not want your email address listed in the post, post here anyway so I can keep track, and email me your address later.

Truck springs

2008-10-27T18:07:00.003-04:00

I have found springs for the truck at very reasonable prices.

the specs of the spring are:
O.D. 1.47
Wire .125
Length 2.00
Rate 43 #/in
Max safe load 47.20#

this means that the outside diameter is just a little less than an inch and a half (which translates to 6 inches in diameter in full scale), the wire is one eighth of an inch thick (or half inch in full scale), The spring is 2 inches tall (or 8 inches). It will take 43 pounds to compress the spring 1 inch, and will accept a max of 47 pounds. Because of the geometry of the rear suspension, any weight on the axle will be divided between the pivot point at the front and the spring at the back, so each axle will support MORE than the springs maximum specifications without overloading the springs.

Front springs on the truck will be out of site inside the cab, but the back springs will be out in the open. Since trucks like this used leaf springs, not coil springs, I decided to slip the springs inside lengths of bicycle tire tube to hide the spring and simulate an air bladder in an air ride suspension set up.

The springs are $5.69 each, and I need six of them. I have made an offer to the supplier that I am waiting for a reply on. If the supplier will provide the 6 springs at no charge, I will advertise their company permanently and prominently on my truck. I will post the response when I receive it.

2008-09-26T16:19:00.003-04:00

A chain of recent developments have been made concerning the RC truck.

Possibly THE most important is the simple fact that I have gotten a replacement carburetor for the engine and after bolting it in place, the engine started and ran on it's first crank and has been running properly ever since! I will post some videos soon, once I am able to take them.

Another important step has been the finding of proper axles, evidently as many as I want at VERY reasonable prices! The selection includes plain axles with a differential and sprocket as well as motorized axles from common "mobility scooters."

A co-worker of my father's has offered an RC transmitter and receiver pair as well as 4 servos for as little as $40. There may be an issue since the system is of the older AM band and may or may not work properly in the presence of electrical interference from the engine.

My N Scale Diorama

2008-08-17T19:18:00.008-04:00

Since I loaded these three images for someone in a forum to see, I figured I might as well post them here as well.

This is the new start of my Diorama after disaster struck in the form of two cats fighting on the diorama shelf and knocking it six feet to a linoleum floor.

The diorama is built on extruded Blue foam insulation. It is roughly 6 inches by 30 inches and the foam is 2 inches thick.

Thanks goes to Gary for the buildings (which I still haven't paid him for but I DO intend to). The string of four cars with the caboose are die-cast cars from Reader's Digest but the kingpin rivets are so tight that the trucks DO NOT swivel so the cars are useless for anything but a non-powered siding in their current state.

The F7s you see are B'Mann's powered A/B pair but I believe they have cracked gears. Neither run smoothly but are good looking locos so I may clip a motor wire and leave them on a powered siding so their lights work. These are for sale, make an offer. I paid $18 for the pair, and am simply looking to cut my losses. They might be worth it to someone with a damaged shell or chassis or in need of a motor or just to someone wth enough spare parts to replace the trucks.

The tractor is a die-cast toy that was bought at Walgreen's Pharmacy (of all places) for $2.99. It is beautifully detailed and based on measurements specs listed on the Caterpillar website, is nearly exact scale for N. The bucket is able to raise and lower and the backhoe exhibits prototypical range of motion, being able to raise and lowers, extend and retract, and the bucket tip and dump but the arm does not swing to the sides. The outriggers are solid metal and are not adjustable. The tires feel like real rubber and roll smoothly.

The camera used to take the photos is a piece of garbage but was also free so I do not complain.

click on thumbnails for larger, clearer (not much) views:

My first video post

2008-05-18T00:54:00.007-04:00

Hope I did it right...

Our digital camera does not have sound, so this is unfortunately silent. It was however EXTREMELY, even PAINFULLY loud in person. We loved it!

I KNOW a few friends of mine are going to HATE me for having had the opportunity to film these next several clips:

More videos to come...

2008-05-18T00:06:00.010-04:00

If you know me at all, you know my posts are typically few and far between so this will be the last time I apologize for taking so long to post an update...

As far as hobbies go, all are currently on hold due to lack of funds, typical I know.

I spent the day with my wife at an armed forces awareness celebration in Downtown Augusta Georgia. Don't know how long they will keep the site up but you can see flyers here: Thunder Over Augusta

I took a few pictures and LOTS of video..

Chainsaw Chicks
Chainsaw Chicks carving an eagle out of a log with a chainsaw
Chainsaw chicks

Chainsaw Chicks

Chainsaw Chics

Chainsaw Chicks

National Guard Boat
The events today were at the Augusta Riverwatch which is a scenic walking / bike path along the Savannah River... So why was the Coast Guard boat on a trailer in a parking lot just a few hundred feet from the river?

Lee Greenwood
Lee Greenwood, on stage in concert. This camera SUCKS in fading light, for one thing, and has very poor zoom quality. These were taken about 100 feet from stage.

Lee Greenwood

Lee Greenwood
Yay blurry

Lee Greenwood

king midget
This is I believe a "King Midget". An actual production vehicle that had a Briggs and Straton 5 horsepower motor from the manufacturer and was road legal. It is now at the top of a rotating signpost for a diner called the Mellow Mushroom. Dude.
king midget

king midget

chinook
This is the front rotor hub of a Chinook Helicopter.

chinook
The rear rotor hub of the chinook

chinook
zoomed shot of rear hub

chinook
Engine on the Chinook

chinook
Toby standing beside the Chinook. These are NOT this big on TV LOL

skydiver
Somewhere in this image is a skydiver towing an American Flag. You MIGHT see two of them!

skydiver

There are more images but they will be in the next update.

AnswerTips

2008-02-22T01:28:00.009-05:00

I've added a nifty new feature to my blog. It's called "AnswerTips". Basically you can now double click any single word in the blog and get a pop up with the definition of that word, that is of course if I spelled it correctly in the first place!!

Try it and have fun! Oh and just for the hell of it:

Pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis

Cheers from DieCastoms

Tommy Two Toes

2008-02-20T23:09:00.002-05:00

We've just discovered that one of our 4 two week old kittens has an extra toe on each front foot and therefore has become known suddenly as either Tommy Two Toes!!

Just thought you'd like to know!

to add a helix or not..

2008-02-19T17:03:00.000-05:00

I had an idea early this morning about the layout but am not on the right computer to do the editing so you will have to refer to my previous post for the diagram and this description of my changes:

There is a turnout in grid G1 that will be moved to grid I2 instead, and that track will follow the current curve. A second curve will get laid inside the existing curve so that the yellow section can still have a conituous run loop. The diverging track will immediately begin a grade to place it high enough to run directly above the other mainline through the closet, so that less space in the closet will get used by tracks.. The orange layout section's track plan wont look any different aside of the fact that the continuous loop on it will become a helix instead. This will give me more room on the orange layout for a large mountain and will also give me more tunnel portal options I think. May or may not be a good idea but it's just a thought at this stage, tell me what you think of it.

I'll edit the map when I get back to my own computer.

Mike, from DC.

In Loving Memory of Simone Gauthier, August 26th, 1915 - February 18th, 2008

2008-02-18T14:35:00.002-05:00

In Loving Memory of Simone Gauthier, August 26th, 1915 - February 18th, 2008

2008-02-17T01:15:00.003-05:00

Figured I would drop one more post before going to bed.. I thought I had my mind all made up and people changed it on me again.. Now I have to wonder if I should get the Digitrax Zephyr for $127 or the MRC Express for $135.. The Zephyr is all one unit but the Express has a hand held throttle..

I am still leaning more towards the Zephyr simply because it is self contained and can be extended easily but the things I would do to extend the Zephyr, the MRC system already has, at the expense of having a control system built directly into the base of the unit...

I guess we'll see what the shop has in stock and take it from there...

Have a good night, from DieCastoms...

New Post Office and Town Hall!

2008-02-16T21:14:00.003-05:00

Also while at the flea market today, I paid 50 cents for this perfect little building.. it is a 1990 "Galoob" toy from the "Micro Machines" line which were close to N Scale. The hospital and emergency labels may get replaced with City Hall labels since it is a bit too large of a hospital for my little town.. I think a docter with a carry bag would suffice.

$10 box of magazines, catalog of covers

2008-02-16T21:01:00.004-05:00

While out at the local Flea Market, I spotted a nice deep stack of "Trains" magazines. The guy said $.50 each for them so I started poking through them.. then he said "Tell ya what, gimme $10 and you can take them all!" So I did!

I am trying to catalog them based on their publication date and the headlines and image on the covers. This is what I have done so far, keep checking as I go through the box and add more to the list.. The first 17 are still in their original unopened plastic however a few seem to have had the bags chewed on by something. No damage to the magazines inside that I can see.

In no particular order:

Feb '89, The Great(?) Canadian Steam Rail Excursion / Jet Powered RDC / Georgia's Weekly state-run excusrion line / IMAGE: NEW GEORGIA 6901, inset jet powered RDC

April '90, Blue Mountain and Reading Story, Chicago Skybox / Sante Fe's Chicago-Kasnsas City steel freeway / IMAGE: Sante Fe 5172

March '90, Eisenhower Funeral Train of '69 / CP's new line at Rodger's Pass / Luxury ride between Chicago and D.C. / IMAGE CP Rail 5806 exiting Macdonald Tunnel

Jan '90, Grand Canyon behind steam / VIA system gets the axe / Farewell to Oregon's last logger . Chicago & Eastern Illinois: Worthy of Recall / IMAGE: C&EI 1401

Aug '92 Amtrak tests RoadRailer mail / Railroads in the L.A. riots / Illinois Central, a railroad for the '90's / TWO photo features--Before-and-After; and an interpretive salon / IMAGE: Illinois Central 6137

Dec '91, The "Movie Engine": Sierra RailRoad No. 3 turns 100 / Dakota, Minnesota & Eastern story / All-Color photo section / Milwakee Road's phantom canadian connection / IMAGE: Sierra #3

Feb '91, Houston's Texas Limited; Conrail's Cleveland Dinosaurs / The central Vermont story / IMAGE: CV 4559

Sept '90, Tehachapi: California's bottleneck / Steam Spectacular in St Louis / rutland's short-lived Green Hornets / Beginning the WISCONSIN CENTRAL story / IMAGE: Wisc.Cent.Ltd 6523

Jan '89 New York cross Harbor: an unusual short line / New Haven, now and then / Columbia River Gorge Pictorial / IMAGE: triple headed freight crossing a lake INSERT: NH 2002

July '91, UTAH RAILROADS PHOTO SPECTACULAR / *Kalmback's rail tour of Great Britain / *Rare Lake Shore 2-8-0 survives in Maine / IMAGE: Quadruple headed freight led by SP 5393

May '91, I cannot see the cover of this mag since there is an additional insert in the bag with it. The insert says Switzerland's GLORY, Sept 5 - Sept 18, 1991 and British Rail Tour August 7 - August 22 1991

June '90, Old Colorado photos / Dining Out on the rails, a guide to dinner trains / IMAGE: an interior scene through the window of an unknown dinner train..

OCT '92, Morrison Knudsen's big gamble / Southern Pacific in the Windy City / *Dispatching on the Burlington Northern / *Bay Area steam revival / *special photo section / IMAGE: SP9757

JULY '02, Wings Return to Union Pacific Diesels / CSX Takes a Double-Whammy / RailRoading in the Prairie State, an ILLINOIS ALBUM / Great Circus Train / On Location: BNSF in Oklahoma / New York;s Cross Harbor Railroad / Selling Tickets for the Old Seaboard / IMAGE: Bloomer (?) double header lead by 91

SEPT '96, ON LOCATION: Conrail in Indiana / Short Lines & merger mainia / HORSEPOWER WARS, GM and GE battle for diesel supremacy . Museum of Treasures of St. Louis / Classic Photos by C.W. Jernstrom / IMAGE: Conrail Quality #4106

OCT '90, ANOTHER 4-8-4 BACK IN STEAM: SP&S 700 / GM's London locomotive pland marks 40 years / Aransas forester DeQueen & Eastern / operations on Wisconsin Central / IMAGE: Triple headed coal train on double main led by CN 5408

Feb '90, California's Trona Railway / INSERT: North Dakota Regional / Omaha Hot Spot Napa Valley Wine Train / IKE'S TRAINS, beginning two part coverage, the Campaign of 1952 / IMAGE: Eisenhower on Observation platform of campaign train.

This is the END of the list of mags IN PLASTIC. There are 38 more which are not in plastic that I will get to soon. Please keep checking back and if something interests you, either comment on this post or email me DieCastoms@gmail.com

Stay tuned for more, I will list each one that I have.

Mike.

Posted - February 15 2008 : 09:29:23 AM

2008-02-15T15:04:00.010-05:00

Ok, here comes the latest installment.. Several things to discuss here..

1.) I am playing with decisions about whether to get DCC or not..
2.) I now have 3.5 more sq.ft. to play with..
3.) Many people point out that there are two reversing loops in the layout, when there are none..

To DCC or not to DCC, THAT is the question...
Ok, since I have limited funding available at the moment and am hellbent on having more than I did as a kid when I had HO track nailed and hot glued right to a 4x8 piece of living room wall paneling..
I am estimating on $300 to start out with. I have narrowed my options to two distinct lists

Option list 1---------------------------Option List 2

Zephyr DCC command system-----Faller Car System $125 each

Atlass DCC equiped GP38-----------undecided starter set $75*

5 random used freight cars---------undecided starter set $25*
* one starter set, around $100

Both lists require a 4 x 8 foot, 2 inch thick foam panel, $35

Both lists require quite a few pieces of Atlas Code 55 flex.

The new expansion
Basically, the Mother-In-Law and I took another look at the space and the plans I had before were smaller than I had thought. I can extend the yellow section of the layout by another foot and still not actually have to move the dining room table.
The new expansion allows space for more city roads which will eventually have real moving traffic on them! If you want to know more about the traffic idea, look for my thread in Buildings and Scenery about the "Faller Car System"! ( City street and highway traffic in small scales, http://www.scalerailsonline.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3444 )

This drawing also shows my plans for building an enclosure in the wall of the closet in which to keep my eventual Zephyr DCC command center. I chose that location specifically because the switching yard (in blue) cannot be seen from there.
Since someone asked, here is my plan for wiring.. I intend to have a feeder system from the Zephyr to each section of the layout with some common connectors. The reason is, I intend for each section to be removable and portable. The green section will be a photo diorama. The same connectors will be used between the Zephyr and the feeder system so that the Zephyr can be connected directly to any of the individual sections.
The bright blue switching yard section will be entirely independent from the rest of the layout as far as power and control is concerned. It will be a classic "Inglenook" game with a turn counter as well as consist generator of some sort and will be stocked with some short side-tip coal cars filled with different colored craft beads, and a small gasoline 4 axle switcher. It will have access to the mainline, just for the hell of it. I understand that there are certain DCC decoders that will dumb down and run on DC if there is no signal present, and I also understand that address 00 on the Zephyr can control a DC loco, so the switcher doesn't really matter what it is.

Reversing Loops
Quite a few people have pointed out that my layout plans APPEAR to have two reversing loops when in fact there are none at all. In the image below, I have deleted everything but the rails from my plan images to make it easier to see the plan without interruptions, and to the lower right I drew a very simplified version of the plan with two colours to indicate each rail. If you put your finger on any location on any of my plan images and begin moving in a clockwise rotation, there is no way possible to take a combination of turnouts and end up traveling in a counter-clockwise rotation, therefore there is no way to reverse your travel. That's the simplest and most straight forward and failsafe way that I know of to be sure of that. Here is the image:

As always feel free to save any of these images on your computer and edit them to show your suggestions and repost them here.

That's it for this edition of my post, hope you enjoyed it.
Mike, from Diecastoms

[EDITED 12:50pm 2/15 just to add a few things I forgot..]
Edited by - DieCastoms on February 15 2008 09:46:49 AM

Posted - February 13 2008 : 08:02:24 AM

2008-02-15T15:01:00.006-05:00

(Please Note: This blog entry contains an individual post made by myself to www.scalerailsonline.com To see the post in it's original form, please use the following link: http://www.scalerailsonline.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3445 )

In a previous post, another member asked:
" so your taking up your dining room for a layout. Why don't you use one of the bedrooms?"

My response follows:

Well unfortunately all the bedrooms are being used, as bedrooms! There are 4 people living in this house. A single woman in the master suite, a married couple (my wife and myself) in bedroom 2, and another single woman in bedroom 3 and the last time anyone sat at the dining table was quite literally 3 years ago. If you were paying attention, yes, the married couple is in the smallest room in the house (by 2 inches) and yes, I am the only male in the house aside of my dog and a python..

Also, the layout is not taking up nearly as much as I expected it to take up. My mother-in-law and I were measuring yesterday and it turns out that I can add another 12 inches to the lower edge of the yellow section moving it right into row 4 and still not actually have to move the kitchen table!!

I need to do a little bit of framing so that the layout is cantilevered from the wall instead of having legs in row 4 if possible so that the table can get slid under the layout. We would somehow have more space that way than we do now!

More to come later, working on road placement at the moment.. trying really hard to think in three dimensions...

Mike.

Posted - February 12 2008 : 10:47:01 AM

2008-02-15T14:57:00.005-05:00

(Please Note: This blog entry contains an individual post made by myself to www.scalerailsonline.com To see the post in it's original form, please use the following link: http://www.scalerailsonline.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3445 )

OK, people are still a little confused about where the layout will be in relation to the rest of the house, so here is a floor plan of the whole house.

For a size reference, the washer (W) and dryer (D) are 2 feet by 2 feet (24 pixels x 24 pixels), and the plan is to scale within 3 inches. [C] is counter space, [S] is the stove, and [F] is the refrigerator. The love seat is not scaled properly but its position in relation to the nearest corner of the orange layout section is accurate.

There is a closet indicated in bedroom two by dotted lines. This is the closet that is now in the corner of the kitchen with the two mainlines running through..

Before anyone asks, I cannot build over the washer/dryer area unless I cut holes through the water heater closet, but any tunnels through there would have to be air tight to that enclosure since the furnace blower is also in that closet. Note that I did not forget to draw in the door to that closet, there isn't one.

Here it is:

Mike, DieCastoms.

Posted - February 11 2008 : 4:07:20 PM

2008-02-15T14:54:00.002-05:00

(Please Note: This blog entry contains an individual post made by myself to www.scalerailsonline.com To see the post in it's original form, please use the following link: http://www.scalerailsonline.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3445 )

Here is the latest update on my layout.

Since people seem to be a little confused about what is layout and what is not, I have added color coding as well as indexing letters across the top and down one side..

The gray cross-hatched area from B-1 to C-4 is a closet and will not be viewable during normal operation of the layout. The different colored areas of the layout are what I refer to as my modules, and are electrically independent from each other.

The lavender section A7, the closet section B-1 to C-4, and the green section D-1 and E-1 do not have their own power sources.

The other sections, blue, salmon, and tan can all have trains running on them at the same time independently.

I will make another update when I add some terrain and try to figure out where to put my roads.

Please feel free to save a copy of the most recent image, edit it to show me what you might do differently, and repost it. I will take the ideas I like and add them as I go along.

Thanks
Mike.

Posted - February 11 2008 : 11:03:05 AM

2008-02-15T14:47:00.005-05:00

(Please Note: This blog entry contains an individual post made by myself to www.scalerailsonline.com To see the post in it's original form, please use the following link: http://www.scalerailsonline.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3445 )

A recent update to the layout has added another 3 inches to various places, yielding larger radii in all areas. Here it is:

Later today I will start attempting to add topographic information as well as the layout for the highway, I hope..

Mike.
Edited by - DieCastoms on February 11 2008 11:05:22 AM

Posted - February 10 2008 : 12:57:10 PM

2008-02-15T14:20:00.005-05:00

(Please Note: This blog entry contains an individual post made by myself to www.scalerailsonline.com To see the post in it's original form, please use the following link: http://www.scalerailsonline.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3445 )

First is first, let me tell you a little about my layout. It is a total of around 17 square feet (small considering a 4 x 8 foot layout is 32 square feet) but it is not in a conventional shape.. It basically consists of 5 modules. Two independent modules (one of which is 30 x 30, the other 30 x 50) offer roundy-rounds, one 6 x 50 diorama offers an Inglenook and a passing mainline, a 9 x 25 diorama offers a double track mainline over a trestle for photo ops, and the last module is approximately 5 feet of double track mainline that is hidden from public view.

My only construction restrictions are that I cannot build much larger than the layout in the picture below, and that it must be built higher than an existing bookcase and light switch. Also, I have permission to make holes in the walls anywhere I choose.

Feel free to save this image, open it in a bitmap editor, make adjustments as you suggest, and repost the image. Note that the grid is 12 inches. Edges can be pushed out an additional 3 inches to allow for wider radii.

The layout offers itself particularly well to the idea of two distant towns connected by rail, but I want to also add details like a mountain highway tunnel to the layout and I thought it would be cool to also add some moving traffic. To see a post I am working on with lots of resources on how to make moving traffic, look in the scenery and buildings forum here at SRO.

Yes, it's been forever, I know that... Hush.

2008-02-15T13:35:00.004-05:00

My interests have turned a bit when I realized how impractical most of my other projects were without some sort of machine shop of my own. For a short time, my interest in G Scale trains was renewed and around Christmas time I bought several cheap locos but I lost interest in that a bit as I realized how much track would cost and how insanely little security my property could offer.. I spoke to my Mother In Law about building a layout inside the house and was given a significant chunk of the kitchen and dining room. It is not as big as I would like it to be but lets face it, neither is this house!

The following posts will be exact copies of my posts on the WWW.ScaleRailsOnline.com forum. Posting here is not an effort to take anything away from SRO, just as a way to make it more accessible to friends who have no interest in model railroading themselves but are interested in following along with the progress of my layout. If you are interested in modeling in the smaller scales please check out SRO, they have alot of good resources and a bunch of good people! If you are more into the larger scales, check out www.LargeScaleCentral.com Again, a ton of good resources and a bunch for friendly folks!

Hope you enjoy reading along with me.

Mike from Diecastoms.

Quick thanks:

2007-09-02T23:14:00.002-04:00

Just a quick post to send a thanks out to Tim from timstrucks for the cab that he sent me so that I would have something physical to compare my thoughts to. Head on over to his site, he has a TON of pictures devoted to trucks and the IMPRESSIVE models that he builds of the trucks. There are pictures of his models side beside with pictures of real trucks and you literally cannot tell which is which!!!!

AWE INSPIRING WORK Tim, keep it up!

Tims Trucks

P.S. I can only wish that the picture above was the truck he sent ;)

[EDIT: 11-26-08] Tim's Trucks Website has apparently moved. The new location is:
http://timstrucks.web.aplus.net/
the page for peterbilt trucks like the one I am building is here:
http://timstrucks.web.aplus.net/PBcabover362.htm

Check his site out! I am sure he will appreciate the traffic.

It's true, I've posted again..

2007-08-25T19:03:00.001-04:00

Ok, Here's the latest:

As of July 1st, I'M MARRIED!!!!!!
See some of the pictures at www.tinyurl.com/26cyo9

as for the truck, I have finally found the rear axle! It was an accident that I found this little gem at "Norther Tool and Equipment": http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_35768_35768
It is designed for use in gokarts, so I am sure it can handle the power from the engine, the length of the axle is simply a solid bar so if I have to I can cut it to any length, and there are replacement axles for it if I fuck something up, and Northern Tool also sells matching sprockets so I can drive it off the existing sprocket on my engine.

Also at Northern Tool, http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200330356_200330356
I am still trying to decide exactly what wheel configuration I will end up using. Mostly what I figure is, looking at a few pictures I collected, the truck needs to be about the length of 4 equally spaced axles. If I leave 2 inches between 4 tires and a little more for in front of the front tire and behind the back tire, that will be 2+8+2+8+2+8+2+8+2=(5*2)+(8*4)=10+32=42 inches long! 42inches divided by 12 per foot is 3'6"!!!! With a trailer made out of a 46 inch handtruck, and an overlap of the trailer over the back of the truck of (guessing) 18 inches, that's 46 + 42 - 18 = 70 inches or 5'10" we might as well say 6 feet long!

This truck is getting big.

Thanks to Tim from TimsTrucks.com I have a 1/25th scale body shell from a Peterbilt COE. I took some measurements off of it and drew up a diagram of the truck. Based on the radious of the fenderwell only, I added what looked like appropriate size tires. One pixel of the diagram represents 1 mm on the model that Tim sent. Eventually, 5 pixels on the diagram will represent 1 inch on MY truck.

Interestingly, the cardboard box that Tim shipped the cab in seems to be an appropriate size for the truck box, and was measured and added into the diagram, just for the hell of it.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89/Valkyn/mikes/acc885ce.jpg

2007-08-07T14:21:00.001-04:00

Yeah yeah yeah, WAY too long, AGAIN.... HUSH!

I've recently gotten married, and took a trip to Connecticut, where I was born to see my mom and Dad and most of my "best friends". Laura, John, Meia and Nick, love you all
!

Anyway, my dad gave me a "Pocket Bike" that he got for scrap. The bike was beat up a bit but otherwise complete. I stripped out the engine and all of the wiring. The engine is 49cc with electric start, and an 8:1 CVT. A CVT is a Constant Velocity Transmission. It shifts itself automatically based on the power that is being consumed from the engine. If you are going up a hill, it obviously takes more power and 'downshifts' but if you are on a nice flat stretch it will shift to give you more speed. The interesting thing is, you do not feel the shifting since it is done with a "v-belt" and two pulleys that are able to change their diameters.

On testing the engine I found that it would run happily on a spray of starter fluid into the carburetor but would not run at all from the fuel in it's own gas tank. This confused the hell out of my father and I. For those of you who know engines, there is no float bowl on this carb, just a primer bulb. It is a Diaphragm carb. For those of you who DON'T know what that means it's ok, because I just learned myself. There is a TINY port (the shaft of a Q-Tip just barely fits) out of the engine and into the carburetor. This port lets a small amount of the hot engine gasses from the combustion to feed back into the carburetor, where it hits a small rubber diaphragm. The pressure from the hot gasses moves the diaphragm towards a small supply of gasoline that has flowed into the carburetor from the fuel tank. The Diaphragm also serves to keep those hot gasses separated from the fuel supply and the rest of the carburetor. The pressure from the diaphragm forces that small supply of gasoline further into the carburetor for it to be mixed with air and delivered to the combustion chamber. At some point in time, the previous owner(s) removed the carburetor from the engine, and when they replaced it, they put a gasket on upside down and backwards which covered that port from the engine, so the diaphragm never moved, hence there was no fuel being pumped into the engine....

While I had the carb off, as I usually do, I decided to take stuff apart, just to see what was what. I found that the automatic centrifugal clutch assembly was damaged. These clutches work in much the same way as the drum brakes in a car, except for instead of STOPPING rotation, the whole thing rotates. As you know, brake pads and 'shoes' need to be changed occasionally. So do clutch shoes. The shoes were GONE from this clutch. $26 to replace them online from SDScooters.com.

So I called SDScooters to ask a few questions like "How can I charge the battery without the OEM battery charger?" and "Is there a cheaper way to replace the clutch parts?" and "Can I buy new gaskets for this carburetor?". During the course of the conversation, I also asked if they had any access to the wire diagram or schematic for my particular bike. They do not HAVE wire diagrams because no one MAKES diagrams... for ANY of the bikes. . . So I told him, "I have done my own diagram, and wanted a professional one to compare it to." I offered to show him the diagram I had done, and after emailing it, suggested that if they were to send me some harnesses, I would draw diagrams of the harnesses, and email the files back, in exchange for parts for my engine. The guy on the phone says "Tell ya what, send me your mailing address, I will send you the clutch parts, the charger, and another harness. Email me the diagram for the second harness and we'll call it a deal!"

So I now have, a running (as of yet untested but assumed to run) 49cc engine with a replacement clutch and all of the wiring for the electrical system (not the electronics such as the radio control system, just the electrical such as headlights and tail lights etc.) with a brand new clutch assembly and the original charger for the bike, at this point, all free! Now I am in need of the following:

* Gas tank, can be made out of anything that will hold gas, more than likely will be stolen from an old weed whacker
* Radio System, the 'big ticket' portion of this build, somewhere around $300, 2.4 Ghz system with more than 3 channels required...
* Chassis, to be custom fabricated, first from wood, then from steel.
* rear axle, this is not the most expensive part of the build but is turning out to be the hardest to find. I am looking for the rear axle from a "mobility scooter" because it will be chain drive and also contain a differential which will allow the wheels to turn at different rates when the truck is steering right or left.
* Body/Cab, to be custom made AFTER the final chassis is built.
* real axle. This is not the most expensive part of the built but is turning out to be one of the most difficult to locate. I am looking for the axle out of a "mobility scooter" like Grandma gets around the house in or handicapped folk get around Walmart in... When I find the right one it will have a chain drive and a differential all in one unit and will most likely determine the overall width of the truck since it will not be easy to change the length of the axles. . .

[Edit] 08/07/07 corrected typos/spelling mistakes.

Been way too long, part 2

2007-04-30T00:14:00.001-04:00

See the original post at DieCastoms Website

Apr 29, 2007

Again, it has been WAY too long since my last post. Alot has happened that has kept me occupied with other things. Recently however, I was graced with a COMPLETE, brand new Radio Control system that can be used in any of my R/C projects, including this truck and the T-Bucket. Here is a photo taken from the ebay auction. Click on the photo for the auction's description.

One of the things I wish to do, starting the engine from the radio (and shutting the engine down as well) will be accomplished by using one of the servo outputs to control a relay that will directly control power to the starter motor. I searched the internet for countless hours trying to find a way to do this and was never able to. During a search for ""Radio Control" Battlebot" on Google, I came across a gem called a BattleSwitch, and it's little brother called PicoSwitch. They are made by Dimension Engineering of Akron Ohio and consist of a 240VAC 10A or 125VAC 1A relay systems respectively and are controlled off the output of a standard servo channel in a hobby grade radio control system.

Another step in the right direction is the engine that I found at SDScooters. It is a 33cc 2-stroke engine with electric start and including a 5:1 ratio transmission.

My First Post!

2007-03-09T01:34:00.000-05:00

I have never been much of an active Blogger. Several people have said that I should start a blog for my insane projects that I have been working on for years and will probably never finish. Many of these have already been started and I don't have the parts to finish them, some of them are projects that I WANT to do someday but probably will never get any "round tuits" or even square ones...

Been way too long

2006-06-05T00:13:00.000-04:00

See the original post at DieCastoms Website

Jul 4, 2006

Been way too long since an update I see. I have started working on a second project that seems a little easier to get parts for. On the projects page, choose the T Bucket Roadster project to see it.
Anyway, I found a company today that may be able to help me get the gears I need in order to build a custom diff. I explained to them what I want, but just in case they didn't understand my explanation, I am going to add a drawing here for them of how I want to do the diff and rear end.

WE WILL NEVER FORGET!

2005-09-12T00:12:00.001-04:00

See the original post at DieCastoms Website

Sept 11, 2005. WE WILL NEVER FORGET!

I started out wishing to construct a cab-over-engine sleeper cab, and flat bed trailer (the trailer being made mostly out of a hand dolly). When I scaled the truck originally based on hand truck tires, I was using the measurement of 4.5 inches. It simply slipped my mind that the 4.5 inches was a measurement of the RIM and not the tire assembly. With the tire being an actual 10 inches in diameter, the truck would have to be 1/4 scale for the tires to look right. After reviewing the website http://www.eastcoastminiclassics.com I see that they use 6 horse 'lawn mower' engines in similar 1/4 scale trucks. Their trucks are capable of pulling a 1200 pound trailer, and up to a 350 pound driver. My truck will not carry a passanger and at the moment I am planning on carrying a 1/4th scale model car.

Radio Control Tractor Trailer, second issue

2005-09-05T00:12:00.001-04:00

See the original post at DieCastoms Website

Sept 04, 2005. I am working on ideas to create a reverse gearing system that can be controlled with a push-pull motion of a servo. I havean idea but I have no clue if it will work effectively. Dad says that one of his Mother Earth News magazines has the same'linkage' that I designed in the drawings for a gocart, so I guess I did something right. The linkage requires three identical gears, and two identical pulleys, none of which are anything special. Using one smaller pulley then the the other will effectively drop the ratio for reverse. Here's a B/W of my idea..

I had another idea.. using the mobility scooter differential in place of the red axle in his picture, I can pwoer BOTH rear axles with a sngle chain on each side. I will have to add some srings to it to keep the rear 'truck' from "pulling wheelies" (back axle digging in, front axle lifting off ground). There is a slight chance that this may create a convincing "wheel hop" like big rigs sometimes do.. We'll see.

Radio Control Tractor Trailer, the concept

2005-06-02T00:05:00.001-04:00

See the original post at DieCastoms Website

R / C . T r a c t o r . T r a i l e r ! !

..I am looking to custom build a large, radio control
Tractor Trailer. I think I will use a cab-over design to have the
most engine room, and hide the fact that it will have a weed whacker
engine in it, hopefully I can make a good looking static model out of
it as well. I"m thinking 1/10 or 1/6 scale, what do you think of
that?

..I am having trouble finding people willing to help, even just advice
answers tips and things, all the websites I have found as-of-yet don't
make all that much sense or look like they were built by 12 year olds.
Most have little or no useful information to me.

..I am trying to figure out what to use for a rear differential. I'm
worried about using a straight axle. The short wheelbase, with most
weight being over the front end makes me think it may work fine, but
if I put enough weight on the trailer, it may not steer.

..I have drawn up plans (not to scale yet) to custom-build a diff with
my Dad (who is a blacksmith, and a welder-fabricator by trade) out of
six 90degree bevel gears (4 inside, one outside, one on driveshaft).
I tested my design with Lego's (Don't laugh) It worked. I don't see
why it will not work on a larger application. The draw back is that
it will be all open.

..My third idea rests with the differential out of something like a
Lark Motor Scooter.. The diff is enclosed, 4 inch Dia, 6 inch long
"tin can" shape. Considering such a wheel chair is designed to move a
person, plus the weight of their belongings, plus the weight of the
chair itself, I imagine it should be suitable for this. You?

..I had a battery toy truck when I was a kid that used a rocking
mechanism to try to keep all 4 rear tires grounded. I think I will try
the same with this, but I'll need universal joints. Weed whackers
tend to employ flexible drives housed inside the pipe-handle. Maybe I
can use that to my advantage?

..I also wonder if I might be able to find a variable, shiftable gearbox
(hopefully even radio operated?) or at least a forward-reverse. I
have no ideas on that as of yet. Do you?

..I need a radio.

..For the moment I will take a 2 channel but every time I type
anything about this truck I think of ways I could use more channels..

..I NEED throttle and steering obviously, and brakes if equipped can
be added to the throttle control easily enough I think.

..I would also like to add a kill switch since 99% of weed eaters have
them, and it would be nice to be able to immediately kill the engine if
something is wrong, and if the receiver has the right functions, kill
the engine when the signal is lost. I know there are model airplanes
that "level out make a 180" if the signal drops. If I can find one, I
want to use the Torro weed eater with the electric start option so the
truck will be really hands off operable. It would be nice at a fair
to sit back and see some kid gloat over the awesome giant model truck,
and start it from where ever I am sitting and drive it around a little
:) The start and kill functions could easily be controlled with the
same servo. Now we are up to 3 channel.

..If I find a suitable gearbox, that can be operated by servo, that
will be 4 channels.. What is your input on that?

..I'm hoping to keep the cost of this down as I haven't much money to
throw at it. Dad things he can find allot of what we might need for
the chassis in the scrap pile at work. The cab can be a simple
painted box for now, unless I find a suitable model truck to scavenge.

..I was thinking push mower wheels or old kid's wagon wheels until I
find something better. Maybe 2 or 3 side-by-side will make an
appropriate single wheel/tire. We have a mower here with a blown
engine.. Another option slightly more expensive would be pneumatic
tires from hand trucks, dollies (I just realized, a hand truck with
the bottom plate removed, a deck added, and a modified handle will
make the perfect trailer, about 5 feet long :-) )

..Any idea on adding "Diesel smoke" and making the engine sound a little
more real? It will have side-pipe of course.